Bethlehem

As many of you know, Jerusalem is pretty darned quiet on Shabbat (except in the Christian, Armenian and Muslim quarters of the Old City).  It is one of the more charming aspects of the city, how it shuts down as sundown approaches on Friday, stays quiet on Saturday and then comes alive again Saturday night. One could follow a 'when in Rome...' approach and spend the day attending services, in religious contemplation, resting and the like.  But for some less observant Jerusalemites (aka the Levin-Meers), the challenge is what to do on Shabbat, especially when Toby and Gabriella are doing their best impersonation of the 'Bicker Brothers'.  It is the only 'day off' we have, since the kids have school 5.5 days a week (Sunday to mid day Friday).

So this Shabbat we decided to venture into the West Bank and visit Bethlehem.  It was a bit nerve wracking driving there in an Israeli registered car (kind of like driving your car into Mexico). And the big red signs warning Israeli citizens about the danger of traveling to Palestinian Authority territory don't help. We did not see many cars with Israeli plates until we got close to Manger Square, the main tourist attraction. Then Michelle and I debated about where to park - lot versus street, can we find a lot, is it safe, could the tires get slashed, it's not our car, what if something happens to it, and so on...but eventually we both calmed down. We found a spot on a busy street, I asked at a nearby gas station if street parking was ok, they said sure, no problem and off we went to the Church of the Nativity to see where Jesus is alleged to have been born (at least according to Constantine's mother Helene).

Church of Nativity Mosaic Floor

The church (originally commissioned in 326 CE) was packed with tourists and pilgrims but we hooked up with a guide, Said, who gave us the low down and got us in ahead of a long line to see Jesus' birthplace (marked by a 14 point star), the Chapel of the Manger and St Jerome's cave.  We also learned a few salient historical factoids - the Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox and Armenians have been in conflict for years and have separate dates for the birth of Jesus; St Jerome spent 35 years translating the Bible from Aramaic to Latin, while living in a hermit's cell with a skull (to keep him focused and give him incentive to keep working.)  The church itself has a stunning 4th century mosaic that was discovered in 1934.

Birthplace of that wise and gentle prophet

After a quick walk through the Bethlehem shuk (a lot less expensive than the one in Jerusalem) we stopped at a local felafel joint called Afteem (when you get a recommendation from your guide that is also the Lonely Planet's top choice, that is like hitting the trifecta).  It was great - felafel fresh from the fryer, fantastic hummus and a mostly local clientele. We got lost driving back to Jerusalem but the GPS saved the day.