The Negev

Feeding the Camel

The Negev is Israel's answer to 'Big Sky' country and we spent two fun days down there with the Roths.  We stayed at an alpaca farm near the small town of Mitzpe Ramon which is near the 'crater' (Makhtesh Ramon) that is billed as Israel's Grand Canyon.  (Well that might be stretching it - more like the Grand Canyon of Connecticut) but it still has gorgeous vistas, incredible geology and beautiful desert flora and fauna.  Unfortunately we were a bit short changed at the farm because most of the staff were off on an annual 100 km horseback ride through the Makhtesh - so we were not able to take advantage of everything there, like horseback riding, wool spinning, etc - but such is life...

You Go Girls

Still, the kids had a ball feeding the llamas, alpacas and camel at the farm and it is a very picturesque and unique place to stay - in the middle of nowhere, to be honest.   We all enjoyed a beautiful hike through a wadi (dry riverbed) in the Makhtesh at the end of a 5 km drive over a very bumpy gravel road.  The next day, after the classic Israeli breakfast of eggs, yogurt (vanilla and chocolate), cheese, bread, fruit, labaneh, granola, cereal, humus, pastry and salads (eating really is a national obsession here), we visited an amazingly well preserved ancient Nabataean city at Avdat National Park and then ended the trip at David Ben Gurion's tomb.  He and his wife have a really incredible view of the Negev from their final resting spot.

Future shofarot?

View from Ben Gurion's Tomb

Olives and Life

We have a bit of olive curing going on at #1 Rashbag and it has been a learning experience.  We picked olives at a public park, the Tayelet, which overlooks the city and is a 5 minute drive from the house.  (As I walk Jerusalem I am starting to see that there are olive groves all over the city.)

We researched a recipe. First we cut or smashed each olive and then soaked them in water for 4 weeks, to remove some of the bitterness.  Then we mixed up a batch of pickling juice. I had this notion that the salt:water:vinegar ratios had to be exact or the olives would not cure properly. So there I am, measuring ingredients like I am in some pharma lab.  We had the idea of asking Sharona's Dad, Avner, for his advice.  He is an experienced olive man, makes 10 kilo batches at a time. Avner comes over, with hot peppers in hand, and we show him our jar.  He tastes one (I thought you could not touch them for a month) and immediately starts tearing up the hot peppers and throwing huge pieces into the mix. Then he dumps in two handfuls of salt - so much for my careful ratios.

Two batches of olives

I flashed back to 1986 when I was working for a petrophysics (flow of oil through rocks) company in Mountain View.  I had very little exposure to computer technology at that point (I was one of those people that thought I would break the PC if I shut it down the wrong way.)  The engineers at this company had no problem with pulling off the back of the computer, digging around with screwdrivers, installing memory boards and the like. Sort of the same deal here.

We have been eating a few and they are not terrible and no one has gotten sick; admittedly a low bar but you have to start somewhere :)

On another subject, Gabriella had an assignment in English to write a 'diamond poem' - 4 words that end in 'ing'.  For me she chose shopping, mopping, driving and, of course, blogging - that's my life...

Bethlehem

As many of you know, Jerusalem is pretty darned quiet on Shabbat (except in the Christian, Armenian and Muslim quarters of the Old City).  It is one of the more charming aspects of the city, how it shuts down as sundown approaches on Friday, stays quiet on Saturday and then comes alive again Saturday night. One could follow a 'when in Rome...' approach and spend the day attending services, in religious contemplation, resting and the like.  But for some less observant Jerusalemites (aka the Levin-Meers), the challenge is what to do on Shabbat, especially when Toby and Gabriella are doing their best impersonation of the 'Bicker Brothers'.  It is the only 'day off' we have, since the kids have school 5.5 days a week (Sunday to mid day Friday).

So this Shabbat we decided to venture into the West Bank and visit Bethlehem.  It was a bit nerve wracking driving there in an Israeli registered car (kind of like driving your car into Mexico). And the big red signs warning Israeli citizens about the danger of traveling to Palestinian Authority territory don't help. We did not see many cars with Israeli plates until we got close to Manger Square, the main tourist attraction. Then Michelle and I debated about where to park - lot versus street, can we find a lot, is it safe, could the tires get slashed, it's not our car, what if something happens to it, and so on...but eventually we both calmed down. We found a spot on a busy street, I asked at a nearby gas station if street parking was ok, they said sure, no problem and off we went to the Church of the Nativity to see where Jesus is alleged to have been born (at least according to Constantine's mother Helene).

Church of Nativity Mosaic Floor

The church (originally commissioned in 326 CE) was packed with tourists and pilgrims but we hooked up with a guide, Said, who gave us the low down and got us in ahead of a long line to see Jesus' birthplace (marked by a 14 point star), the Chapel of the Manger and St Jerome's cave.  We also learned a few salient historical factoids - the Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox and Armenians have been in conflict for years and have separate dates for the birth of Jesus; St Jerome spent 35 years translating the Bible from Aramaic to Latin, while living in a hermit's cell with a skull (to keep him focused and give him incentive to keep working.)  The church itself has a stunning 4th century mosaic that was discovered in 1934.

Birthplace of that wise and gentle prophet

After a quick walk through the Bethlehem shuk (a lot less expensive than the one in Jerusalem) we stopped at a local felafel joint called Afteem (when you get a recommendation from your guide that is also the Lonely Planet's top choice, that is like hitting the trifecta).  It was great - felafel fresh from the fryer, fantastic hummus and a mostly local clientele. We got lost driving back to Jerusalem but the GPS saved the day.

Toby and the Tanks

You have to love Israeli schools :) Toby went to his grade's version of outdoor education on Monday, for an overnight at a kibbutz in the Galilee. It was not totally clear (to me anyway) what they did up there. Toby told me that many kids stayed up all night talking to each other on their cells phones and that at one point a girl came into the room Toby was staying in (with four other boys) and had to be chased out by one of the teachers. (I guess these Israeli girls are fast). Needless to say he was a tired camper when he came home - but they gave the kids the option of staying home the next day - which Toby availed himself to.

Checking out the new ride

So we had some father-son bonding time on Wednesday.  What better way to spend it than visiting Yad La'Shiryon Latrun - the Armored Corps Museum and Memorial to IDF armored corps fallen soldiers.  Quite a collection of tanks, APCs and other armored fighting vehicles, both Israeli and ones captured during the various wars since 1948.  Watch out IDF, you may have a new recruit coming in 6 years, (although his Mom might have something to say about that).

IDF here we come

I have time to play, so Tuesday I wandered around Tel Aviv for awhile and then met Gal for a late lunch at a fish joint in the old Jaffa port. One trademark of many restaurants here is that they put out 10 to 20 small plates of salads, pickled veggies, falafel, humus, olives etc and a stack of pita bread, before you order anything. (That way you pay for appetizers, regardless). I can make a meal out of the small plates - who needs an entree?  But of course we had some fish too and then waddled our way north to the bus station, for the ride home.

And we haven't ordered yet!

Brief Recap, Recent Activities

Dome of the Rock from Mt of Olives

Hi All - a brief recap of some recent activities. I took a fun-filled, if a bit strenuous, ramble from the Lions' (or St Stephen's) Gate in the Old City up the Mount of Olives.  (Smart people start at the top and walk down but I figured I could get some history, culture and cardio work at the same time.)  Incredible views and amazing history in that part of town, although it was a bit hazy...but I won't bore you with a recitation of the various religious sites.

Praying at Mt of Olives Cemetery

Church of the Pater Noster - Mt of Olives

Ended the ramble with some Palestinian pizza deep in the Muslim Quarter - 10 NIS for a 6" pie and all the hot peppers you can eat - the best deal in town.

On 11/2 we met the Israeli Roths in Daliyat El Carmel, a Druze village in the Carmel Mountains outside of Haifa.  I had visions of a rustic ethnic experience but that was probably achievable 25 years ago. What we got was major traffic gridlock. (All the secular Jews looking to eat out on Shabbat).  But the food was great and the shopping was very inexpensive compared to Jerusalem.  And Toby got to wrestle with a Nigerian pilgrim at the Carmelite Monastery outside of town.

Tomorrow I give my second lecture on Emergency Response and Preparedness at a Ministry of the Environment training course and Toby leaves on an overnight outdoor education trip (0645 departure).  Today I bought each of the kids a bus pass, since they are now taking the bus home from school most days (without incident) after our initial traumas. It's all good :)

It's Always Fireworks with the Israeli Roths

A Nigerian Pilgrim takes a shine to Toby

Another Bus (Mis)Adventure

Well, taking the bus home from school continues to be a source of adventure (and trauma) for the kids and panic for the parents.

Toby and Gabriella have been taking the bus home from school without incident for the past few days. But today we got a call from Toby that he had left his cell phone at a bus stop, so he and Gabriella had gotten off at the next stop so he could go back and retrieve it. He went back to get it and then could not find Gabriella!! (Gabriella had stayed at the bus stop where they got off, with the back packs, so Toby could run back to get the phone.)

Needless to say this really freaked us out.  So we drove to where Toby was, picked him up and started looking for Gabriella.  It turned out that after finding the cell phone, Toby tried to retrace his steps to where Gabriella was waiting but had run right past her without seeing her and ran another quarter mile or so looking for her. Of course he could not find her because he could not find the stop where they had gotten off the bus.  So we retraced his steps in the car and finally found Gabriella.  But it was 30 minutes or so that she was alone and waiting and she was pretty traumatized and broke down when we finally found her. (But she held it together up to that point).

(At least) two lessons learned from this experience.  One is to always stay together; the other is to make note of your surroundings so you can find places again (especially because you inherited a lousy sense of direction from your parents).  Yes, whatever happens the blame is always laid at our feet :)

All's well that ends well and Gabriella got a great night's sleep after her traumatic experience. And Baruch Hashem that Israel is a very safe country - we have no worries about the kids being in danger if they are lost, we just worry about finding them!!

Milestones

As I have mentioned in previous posts, the kids are getting more independent all the time. Can't believe they are getting so old - today  Gabriella turns 10 and Toby turns 12!!  That is the big milestone.  The small one is yesterday they took the bus home from school by themselves.  Definitely differentiating themselves from their parents - I told Toby this was his job for the next few years, but it is still bittersweet - great to see them growing so well, sad that it is going so fast.  Before we know it, they will be out of the house...

And yesterday I lectured at the Israeli Ministry of the Environment on emergency response and preparedness.  Went pretty well, they want me to come back next week and do it again (they are training a new group of responders).

Climbing Tel Bet She'an

The Birders

Galilee Weekend

Bet She'an

Spent a great 3 days in the Galilee.  Left Thursday and made a beeline for Bet She'an National Park, a 400 acre archaeological site that includes the ancient city of Bet She'an-Scythopolis and the Tel Bet She'an.  Incredibly well preserved Roman ruins, the best we gave seen so far. Then we spent a few hours swimming at the Sachne pools, some natural springs near the modern city of Bet She'an. Ended the day at a small lake in the Hula Valley that is on the flyway and saw the most astonishing collection of migrating birds - thousands and thousands headed south to Africa.  The cacophony of bird honking and hooting and the sight of so many birds was really something to behold.

Hula Valley Sunset

Hula Valley Birds

We stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast in a small farming community, Yavne'el, just west of the Kinneret.

The Cocolate Makers

On Day 2 we started with a tour of a chocolate factory in the Golan Heights which included making our own chocolate truffles and bars.  A chocolate lover's dream come true.  Total fun and we got to take our product with us.  Ended up at Mt. Bentel, site of one of the key battles in the Yom Kippur war. Only 60 kms to Damascus from this point. Great views of the Syrian border and the Valley of Tears.

60 kms to Damascus...

Day 3 started with a bit of a bust. We took a canoe down the Jordan but it was a pretty industrialized part of the river (a lot of pumping for agriculture) so it was a bit on the funky side. (But we did see people being baptized in the river and some huge catfish :) Then we went to a beautiful 12th century Crusader era fort (Belvoir Castle) at Kokhav Hayarden National Park. (Gabriela's comment - 'I've seen enough Crusader castles...') Also saw a gorgeous 6th century mosaic floor at the Beit Alpha Synagogue and ended the day with a great meal at a very atmospheric Arab restaurant in Nein.

Jordan River

Live and Learn

Mistakes teach us more.

Toby has been much more independent of late, wanting to spend time with his friends as opposed to his parents and sister.  He has been asking to take the bus home from school like his friends do, instead of being picked up.  (His older brother Josh was about the same age when he started taking the 31 Balboa to SF Day School - a straight shot from our house but at the time his friends' parents thought I was either abusive or incredibly lax. You know how these divorced Dads can be...)

So yesterday I said, sure give it a shot. We had talked about it, looked at the map and i assumed he knew the direction home from school. Toby had a cell phone in case he needed to contact us.  Away he went.  About 30 minutes later as Gabriella and I are pulling up to the house I get a call from Toby saying he got on the bus as we discussed and it went to the end of the line and he has no idea where he is.  (And guess what, neither did I.)

After a moment of panic and pure adrenaline (on my part, Toby was ok), Michelle and I got in the car and headed to the neighborhood that he ended up in.  But we could not find the intersection where he was on our GPS and his phone was running out of minutes, so we were in danger of losing contact with him!  That would have been a major problem because we really had no idea where he was.  It turned out that he had gotten on the bus going in the wrong direction from school and ended up in this very orthodox neighborhood called Bayit Va-Gan.  We finally found him by following the bus to the end of the line - there he was!!  (It was lucky we found him because otherwise he might have been adopted by some black hat family and turned into a Haredi.  The next time we saw him he would be sporting peyis and wrapping tfillin.)

But it was a good lesson for all of us, on a number of levels, and now Toby knows for sure the direction home from school.  I have to say, he remained remarkably calm during the incident, in contrast to his father.  And never again shall he leave the house without a fully charged cell phone with minutes to spare and money for a taxi :)

The Kids are All Right

Toby and Gabriella have really grown on this trip.  From the start they have been willing to try new things, foods, experiences without the histrionics that I recall from years (even months) past. This past weekend for example, Toby went with a school friend on the Israeli equivalent of an overnight Outward Bound. He had half a day to decide whether to go and went for it.  He did not know anyone other than his buddy. Gets on a bus with 50 other kids, building fires, cooking food, sleeping under the stars on the beach at Ein Gedi, hiking 8 miles round trip up the wadi to the oasis. And he took it totally in stride and had a great time.

Then today he went to a small group jazz band workshop at the conservatory where he is taking clarinet lessons.  Again, he walked into the room not knowing anybody, with a sax player, drummer and bass player and the teacher on keyboard and fit right in and had a lot of fun. They are playing blues and jazz and learning to improvise.  I was totally impressed with him.

As for Ms Gabriella, she is starting to speak some Hebrew and is taking piano with a Russian teacher who speaks no English at all.  (Those are interesting lessons :) )  But her playing sounds great.

Crusader Church, Abu Gosh

Of course now that I post this, I am sure we will  observe a partial regression to the goofball/kucklehead behavior we all know and love :)

Crusader Church Interior, Abu Gosh

As for us, we get to do more pedestrian things, like visit Abu Gosh, a small Arab village outside of Jerusalem that is famous for its humus restaurants but also has a well preserved 12th century Crusader Church. We heard some great Baroque music on old instruments in the church crypt.