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Beginning the Next Phase

Canaanite Wall, 18th Century BCE

Michelle, Toby and Gabriella arrived 7/8.  I followed on 7/20 and for the last two weeks we have been touring around with Michelle's sister Julie and two cousins - Baylor and Maya.  It has been a great way to spend time with the family and the cousins have had a lot of fun together.  We have been from Rosh HaNikra on the northern coast, to Akko, to the Carmel Market and Old Jaffa in Tel Aviv, up to Tel Dan Nature Reserve in the northern Galilee and back down to Tsfat for some mysticism and Yemenite wraps.  Saw some fantastic ruins and sites.

                                                                Rooftop in Tsfat

The history never ceases to astound.  It is hard to imagine that you are standing in a port where Jonah was alleged to have set sail for his encounter with the whale.

And then Sharona and Gal take us to a jewelry studio where, in the course of renovating, the owners uncovered relics dating back 2500 years (Israeli law allows property owners to keep artifacts found on their property - they are displayed in a small exhibit in the studio - amazing stuff).

But now vacation is almost over.  Toby and Gabriella start school on 8/27, Michelle and Susan start their Ulpan class and I am looking into learning either the oud or some Klezmer fiddle (or both).  The High Holidays approach and the seasons will turn. So the next phase begins.

Abraham and the Dead Sea

After a short camel ride with Eliazer, Abraham welcomed us to his tent with sweet tea, Turkish coffee and dried fruit. We also prepared some wood fired pita bread. Abraham told us his history of how he came to the Judean desert and his epiphany about monotheism and the folly of idol worship.

Ended the day at Mineral Beach on the Dead Sea for some mud and a mineral soak.

Yesterday we did the Temple Mount sifting project with the Rembrandts.  Someone made a rare find of a slingshot projectile, tear drop shaped and made of lead, probably around 2000 years old.  Some amazing stuff they are finding in the rubble.

Rembrandts in the Old City

Introduced the Rembrandts to the Old City.  Visited the Western Wall and the markets. Some fierce bargaining with the kids. I made a few shekels busking in the Jaffa Gate.  We also took the Western Wall tunnel tour - amazing Herodian engineering and architecture.

After lunch in the Old City, ended up at the Mahane Yehuda market.

Demographics and the cousins arrive

Went to our second service at Kol Haneshama, one of the leading Reform congregations in Jerusalem. Very progressive, right in our 'wheelhouse'.  Everyone is super friendly and helpful and...older.  It really appears that most of the people in our demographic - ie, professionals with kids in the primary to middle school age range, have moved out of Jerusalem because it is just too religious. The people we've met in Jerusalem so far largely have kids entering college or national service.

We are all happy with Jerusalem for our six months because it is such a magical place and there is so much to do, see and learn about but to live in Israel, it would be the greater Tel Aviv area or bust...

Michelle's sister Julie and her two older kids (Baylor and Maya) arrived today. 

Hot monopoly deal game with Shanie and one of the cousins.

Toby and his cousin Baylor hanging out at the Mamilla Mall, Susan and her daughters

Kibbutz Ga'Ash

Went to visit Gabriella's Hebrew teacher at Kibbutz Ga'Ash.  Beautiful spot north of Tel Aviv, right on the Mediterranean.  Talked a lot about kibbutz life, then headed to the beach for some body surfing.  On the way back Toby and Gabriella found ancient pottery fragments, including a couple of pot handles.

Ended the day at the Western Wall watching Shabbat preparations.  Funny to see the orthodox men jumping out of cabs and heading to the wall right before sunset.

Living Environ

Our apartment is very well located, a 5-10 minute walk to Emek Refa'im Street, full of cafes, restaurants and other shops and about a 40 minute walk to the Old City.  It also has excellent shwarma right around the corner. 

It is spacious, with 4 bedrooms and 2.5 baths, so for Jerusalem it is larger than average.  The building and neighborhood, however, are old and showing some wear and tear.  I am finding Jerusalem to be a "second worldish", relatively dirty city, with lots of cigarette butts, plastic debris and other garbage littering the streets.  (Plastic bags are ubiquitous in virtually every store.)  But I guess the city has been around awhile :)

We put garbage and plastic bottle/cardboard recycling in a dumpster and repositories in the parking lot where we park the car.  No two car garages here!!

Photo of the parking lot below.  Notice the big, concrete dividers in the middle.  Makes backing into spaces an interesting project.  One time we had to help a woman who got her car stuck on the divider.

Ein Kerem

DAN
Spent the morning at the beautiful Arab-built village of Ein Kerem in Western Jerusalem.  It does not feel like the city at all, lovely old stone homes, big trees, quiet, windy narrow streets.  Notable as the birthplace of John the Baptist. 

International Arts and Crafts Festival

DAN

Went to the International Arts and Crafts Festival outside the Old City.  A lot of hype but big hat no cattle, as they say in Texas.  Underwhelming at best.  Still a beautiful night out.

Mahane Yehuda Market

Becoming regulars at the market with our 'market wagon' (2 wheel cart to carry our goods).  But we don't know enough to get the really good deals. (In fact, half the time I have no idea what things cost - Hebrew numbers are hard, for me anyway).  It's always cheaper when Sharona is with us to bargain. Still, the most atmospheric place to shop for food and spices.